Three days in Old Hanoi

In retrospect, the dead of winter is not the best time to visit Northern Vietnam, as its climate is like that of Northern California at this time -- cold and wet and foggy.  In fact, I'm surprised that there are no redwood trees growing here, as this very much reminds me of the type of weather they seem to love.

Cold weather does not dampen the spirit of the City, however.  The hustle and bustle starts at around 6am, with hoards of motorcycles and scooters darting to and fro between the cars and pedestrians.  A little rain deters no one.  They grab whatever they have that is rainproof -- a tarp, a garbage bag, a raincoat -- and get on with their business.  I even noticed the ultimate cure for the backseat driver: a tarp thrown over the passenger on the back of a scooter.  You can't critique if you cannot see.

While Hanoi is becoming a major metropolitan city, with skyscrapers and freeways, old Hanoi remains like the old historical section of any big town.  The heart of the city beats in Hoan Kiem Lake, around which the people gather in public squares and wide sidewalks.  I am struck by the cleanliness of the place; there is no trash, and no graffiti as if I could read it.  The Vietnamese do have a sense of pride about their community, even if they have little sense of order as displayed by their zany driving habits.  The rule seems to be, "whomever has the biggest vehicle has the right of way".  Nobody messes with the cement truck.  There does not seem to be any rules for two-wheeled vehicles, they can go anywhere, and often do.  I suppose in a crowded city, it creates efficiency to take up any space that's available.

It's easy to get lost here.  The streets are not on a grid system, but snake around and change names often.  Orientation would be easier if the sun would come out.

I met Mr. Lai at the Highway 4 restaurant on Ma May Street.  Highway 4 specializes in, well, Vietnamese/California cuisine if I may.  For example, I've eaten lots of spring rolls on this trip, but here at Highway 4, they are deep fried bean sprout spring rolls served with a wasabi mayonnaise.  Along with a surprisingly delicious Bier Ha Long, 40,000.00 dong ($2.00 US) goes a long way in Old Hanoi.